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Writer's pictureLee Sumner

Cruisers on the Rockies Trail Series: Black Bear Pass




If I could pick only one trail to run in the San Juans, it would be Black Bear Pass. This trail captures everything unforgettable about the area. Black Bear is breathtakingly beautiful, with stunning waterfalls and jaw-dropping views of Telluride. But it’s not just about the scenery—it’s a white-knuckle, heart-pounding experience that challenges your skill and nerve. While Black Bear Pass is intense, it’s also achievable in a stock 100 or 200 Series with a confident and attentive driver at the wheel.

Black Bear Pass is a short, one-way trail that begins just a few miles west of Silverton off Highway 550. It’s one of only two routes that link Silverton directly to Telluride, the other being Imogene Pass, and both are rugged trails. While you could take Ophir Pass or Highway 145, neither offers the same direct path—especially 145, which can take several hours from Silverton. With that in mind, depending on traffic, Black Bear is often the quickest way to reach Telluride.



Once you turn off Highway 550, the trail begins its narrow, winding climb to the pass. On the Silverton side, the ascent is straightforward in terms of obstacles, but the scenery is otherworldly. Shortly after starting out, you’re greeted by a landscape that seems straight out of Tolkien: towering mountains, tall waterfalls, and lush, green valleys unfold in a surreal, breathtaking panorama.



Reaching the pass itself is like stepping into the unknown—you never know what you’ll find. It’s often sunny and clear on the Silverton side, only to turn stormy and brooding on the Telluride side, with thick fog settling over the pass itself. No matter the weather, the pass is always worth a stop to stretch your legs, soak in the views, and grab the iconic photo with the famous Black Bear Pass sign.




Once you leave the pass, the adventure kicks into high gear as you begin the long descent into Telluride. The initial stretch is similar to the climb up—fairly straightforward but extraordinarily scenic. Just when you’re settling in, marveling at the marmots along the way, you round a corner and are met with a breathtaking surprise: Telluride sprawled below you in all its glory. The entire mountain town is laid out in a way few will ever experience—from its streets and parks to its amphitheaters and airport, everything is visible in a single, stunning panorama. This view alone makes the journey unforgettable.



As you continue along, taking in the sights, a thought starts to creep in: What’s the big deal about this trail? Sure, it’s beautiful, but there’s nothing too difficult here. Just as you’re mulling this over, the real descent begins, and you find yourself on the switchbacks leading to the infamous steps. With Telluride looming below, you're now faced with one hairpin turn after another, tight switchbacks interspersed with washouts and off-camber dips that ensure you’re wide awake for what’s to come. By the time you reach the steps, the daydreaming is long over, and you’re in for a technical, pulse-racing descent to the finish.



Then, you arrive at The Steps. This is the defining moment of Black Bear Pass. I’ve run this trail at least twenty times, and the steps never fail to deliver that jolt of adrenaline. This mind-bending stretch plays havoc with your senses—sheer rock to your right, a gut-clenching drop-off to your left that ranges from 50 to 500 feet, and an undulating, off-camber track that keeps you on edge, with Telluride always looming below at a strange, almost surreal angle.



But here’s the secret: for all its intimidating setup, Black Bear’s growl is worse than its bite. The steps play with your mind more than anything. While they look narrow and treacherous from inside the vehicle, it’s surprisingly manageable if you get out and watch someone else navigate it—there’s more room than you’d think. When all’s said and done, the steps might seem easy, but they’re pure thrill, the perfect end to an unforgettable trail.


One of my favorite parts about Black Bear Pass happens right after the steps. Everyone is amped up, adrenaline running high—there’s always a round of high-fives, fist bumps, and shared stories. We gather for a quick breather by the waterfall just below the steps, where everyone can soak it all in. It’s a moment of pure camaraderie, and it never fails to feel amazing.



With the steps behind us, the hardest part is over, but the trail still has its challenges. Up next are the highest, tightest switchbacks in the San Juans—turns so sharp that one miscalculation could send you over the edge, thousands of feet down. But there’s no need to worry; we always have a spotter on the toughest switchbacks, guiding each driver through. Follow their directions, and before long, you’ll be cruising into Telluride, the whole unforgettable journey behind you.




But Black Bear Pass still has one last spectacle before you reach the finish line: Bridal Veil Falls. As the tallest free-falling waterfall in Colorado, this towering cascade is nature’s grand finale. You get a front-row seat to its power and beauty as you wind down the final stretch. Once you pass the falls, it’s smooth sailing into Telluride, with the satisfaction of conquering a trail that only the boldest dare to take on. For those who tackle it, Black Bear Pass isn’t just a trail—it’s a rite of passage.



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